Sarthi, Walcot Street, Bath

It’s hard to believe that Sarthi only opened the doors to its understatedly elegant oasis of plant-based South Asian food on Walcot Street little over a year ago; seriously, up until that point, what did we do without it?

For sure, there are plenty of beyond decent Indian restaurants in Bath, from the traditional/conventional to the thoroughly modern. But what sets Sarthi apart from its contemporaries is the all-round life-affirming energy that wraps itself around you even before you begin to peruse a menu that represents the diverse, complex flavour-profiles of the world’s largest subcontinent.

On a down-to-earth level, the surroundings go a long way to creating Sarthi’s own, unique vibe too; heck, we’re dining beneath a sparkling chandelier-lit wooden vaulted roof in an imposing Grade II listed former chapel. But that genuinely warm and friendly ethos at the heart of the matter in line with a mission statement that puts heritage, tradition and a magnanimous eat, drink and be happy vibe at the epicentre of proceedings encourages you to chill out rather than stress out over –  well, everything and anything that’s currently stressing you out.

We opened our eating-out-as-therapy session with a trio of starters to share: crispy/succulent Hara Bhara Kebabs served with their own little pot of rich, creamy sauce, ginger/garlic/chilli-marinated Bombay Dockyard ‘Prawns’, soft and succulent inside their golden coat and served with a silky yoghurt and (I think?) tamarind dippy pot and the Avocado Street Chat from the dedicated Chat Bhandar selection: a super-pretty, savoury/sweet flavour explosion, multi-layered, multi-textured, multi-fascinating from start to finish. And our mains were still yet to come! And so, after a short break in which to gather our thoughts…

Vivacious Chick’n Jalfrezi laden with peppers, tomatoes, onions and thrilled up with a bracing chilli kick. Bhindi Do Pyaza, which put lusciously tender okra at the heart of beautifully-balanced, earthy/umami sauce of richly caramelised, super-sweet onions grounded by the warm, softly smoky hum of cumin, garam masala and ginger. Rich, comforting Saag Aloo in all its deceptively complex glory which, in the manner of a very experienced party host, forged a close bond with fellow personalities on our main course guest list while still retaining its own lively character. Cumin rice, peshwari naan – given all I’ve just said, Sarthi aren’t going to get those staples wrong, are they? To the contrary, they got both very, very right.

Throughout it all, the staff make you feel as though you’re part of a big, happy family, portions are generous (to say the least) and the overall sensory experience is so totally gratifying that the phrase ‘food for thought’ doesn’t do it justice. 

The word Sarthi loosely translates from Sanskrit/Hindi to mean guide or companion: someone who navigates you through the journey of life. In Bath restaurant terms, you couldn’t put yourself in more capable hands for a uniquely foodie journey.