If French actor, cultural icon and all-round cool guy Alain Delon was still with us and visited Bath today, I reckon he’d land at Chez Dominique for a late lunch and refuse to move until he’d drunk the last drop of Fleurie from behind the bar; it is, quite simply, “that” kind of place.
This quintessentially French/European bistro experience has, since 2016, played a major role in turning Argyle Street into a distinctive modern Bath arrondissement all of its own, made for modern-day flaneurs.
Off the street, the Chez Dom environment exudes a calmly confident vibe, intimate enough to be described as cosy yet decorously spacious. The walls are painted in 50 shades of sage/duck egg blue, the understatedly striking modern chandelier demands attention without dominating the space and an atmosphere of easy-going conviviality dictates the overall pace. Head chef Sam Lewis’s menus, meanwhile, thrum along to a self-assured, confident rhythm, weaving seasonal ingredients into a classic contemporary bistro array with flair and imagination.
From the get-go, our starters exemplified Sam’s modus operandi: a beautifully seasoned, super-savoury, distinctly non-dry Pork Terrine rich in textured contrast, with fruity/tart golden raisins adding spritzy points of interest along the way; plump Brixham scallops paired with a sublimely smooth cauliflower puree, chubby little morsels of bacon, smoky hispi cabbage and creamy new potatoes.
On from those soothingly gratifying openers, the subtly gamey aspect of my sweet, tender Creedy Carver duck breast came perfectly complimented by earthy beetroot and delicate wild garlic that welcomed the arrival of spring to the dish, a light but complex red wine sauce bringing the whole ensemble together. But would Sam mind if I ordered a side of black pudding mash with that, nicked from the chicken dish elsewhere on the menu? If he breathed a sigh of exasperation at a diner disrupting his carefully considered combinations, I didn’t hear it – and oh, that mash can only be described as deeply umami bliss. Meanwhile, across the table…
Chez Dom’s steak frites have earned a reputation that seriously challenges the legendary incarnation served at long-established Parisian brasserie Le Relais de l’Entrecôte. If you’re craving the enduringly popular partnership that is superb, high-grade steak (from a selection of carnivorous options that ranges from the humble onglet to the grand Chateaubriand, all flaunting heritage and the benefits of maturity) served with the kind of fries that can only be described as addictive, book a table here today.
After all that, we were comfortably, satisfyingly sated. But why battle with a sudden downpour when the dessert menu offered a rich, warm, oozy Chocolate Fondant harmonised by a toasted toffee-esque salted caramel ice cream? And regardless of the weather, why deny yourself a neat slab of silky Basque Cheesecake (no base – all delicate, custard treble), the aromatic roasted apple compote and soft tumble of crumble that came with it good enough to create a third, stand-alone dessert in its own right?
Heart, charm, integrity, personality, authenticity of purpose: are we talking about Alain Delon again? Nope; they’re the well-deserved superlatives that combine to create the Chez Dominique je ne sais quoi.
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