Chef Rob Clayton has been doing his cheffy thing at his beautiful little brasserie that lights up George Street with radiant, fairy-lit fusion for 12 years. 12 years! In restaurant world — particularly in the current climate — that’s a massive landmark indeed.
Today, this cornerstone of Bath’s independent restaurant scene is wholly deserving of its local institution status — and, to celebrate that status, I recently talked to Rob for a feature published in the December issue of The Bath Magazine.
I’m fascinated by chefs and have interviewed dozens of them in my food-writing career, but talking to Rob is always an utter joy; few chefs I’ve encountered down the years are as ego-free, affable and good-natured.
“I just really, really love to cook,” he told me, several times throughout our conversation; “I like the creativity, I like the routine — I like having a job that I like to do. When you speak to people who hate going to work, or chefs who say they’re doing it for the money, that makes me really sad — I just don’t get it. Of course we all need money, but isn’t it nice when you earn that money doing something you love?”
And so our conversation rolled along as we delved into the past, analysed the present and shared a couple of predictions for the all-important future. We talked about Michelin stars, the vital importance of provenance… and Ernie! (and now you’re going to have to read the full interview just to find out who Ernie is…)
But what with The Prandial Playground majoring on Bath restaurant reviews, I believe it’s only fair to share a handful of highlights (of which there were many) of our most recent meal at one of Rob’s ‘kitchen’ tables… with extra-added flourish.
There are some experiences in life that represent pleasure, privilege and sheer joy all wrapped up in one glorious parcel — and eating at Clayton’s Kitchen is one such rare experience.
A starter dish of Pembrokeshire Little Haven Crab with a shellfish bisque sauce dotted hither and thither with all manner of oils and flavour-bombs was almost — but only almost — too beautiful to disturb with my fork, while a second starter of pan-roasted scallops — loads of ‘em, each and every one as voluptuous and juicy as a scallop can get — came resting on a sweet, nutty Jerusalem artichoke puree laminated with lemon oil and crunched up with apple and toasted hazelnuts, resulting in what could’ve been a perfect stand-alone lunch dish in its own right.
Following on in style… it takes a super-inspired chef indeed to lift roasted Cotswold chicken breast on cep risotto out of the beige/brown doldrums to spectacularly variegated heights, while perfectly complementing his gloriously fresh catch of the day (in this instance, a huge, fat sea bass) with pickled fennel, sauteed almonds, lobster sauce and toasted fregola can only be described as inspired.
On we went, waltzing through the heaven on a plate that is Rob’s Caramel Chocolate Mousse with salted caramel ice cream, poached pears and candied almonds while we made plans to return for more.
Like legions of Clayton’s Kitchen fans from “Lady so-and-so to groups of lovely, polite bikers in their leather jackets” (it’s all in the full interview, kids!) we will indeed be returning again and again… not least of all because the restaurant’s 25th anniversary, just over 12 years from now, will be a spectacular event; I already look forward to raising a glass to Clayton’s Kitchen with Ernie.
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