Thailand Wok, Moorland Road, Bath

Thai food is pretty much my comfort zone go-to on any occasion; in my world, too much Panang Curry is never enough. It’s just as well, then, that we have multiple Thai restaurants on our Bath doorstep, from the casual to the old-school spectacular with way too many ho-hum takeaway options in between. 

And now, as of just a handful of weeks ago, Thailand Wok has bought a taste of Thailand to Moorland Road, a high street neighbourhood that, despite all manner of ongoing struggles to contend with (traffic regulation/parking zone controversies; dodgy bus timetables; chain invasion attempts; etc) continues to thrive and boldly fly the flag for independent businesses and traditional high street charms… and this sparkly little Thai diner is a perfect, effortless fit.

Thailand Wok is small (around, say, 24-26 covers max?) but perfectly formed, featuring an open kitchen to the rear of the restaurant and offering a lively, casual, effortlessly welcoming vibe throughout. And gosh, it’s busy! Fortunately we booked our Thursday evening table for five a couple of days in advance; if we hadn’t, I think a takeaway might have been our only option. 

Options weren’t limited, however, when it came to the menu. From starter classics (spring rolls; satay; soups; fishcakes; salads and a Curry Puff that I vow to return for) to old friends on a Thai curry theme with plenty of Phads, Krapows and Khings all present and correct, there’s a lot going on here. Prices are clear-cut: most dishes are available in chicken/beef/prawn/vegetarian/vegan format, accompanied by jasmine rice or chips for an extra £2. 

At first glance, however, the Chef’s Specials are surprisingly priced for a small neighbourhood diner, with seabass, tiger prawn and/or ribeye steak superstars fluctuating around the £25-£29 mark. But then again, they hold the promise of being Very Special Dishes indeed and, having sampled a broad selection of the ‘day to day’ array (averaging at around £15), I’d definitely risk pushing the boat out for, say, the Soy Glazed Tiger Prawns (“sweetness and char”? Yes please!). But if you’re simply in the mood for a satisfying supper and a couple of beers without blowing the eating out budget, there are no risks at stake here.

Chicken Satay Skewers; Fried Oyster Mushrooms; various soups on the Tom Yum/Tom Kha theme. A Beef Panang here (of course), a King Prawn Priew Wan next to me, a Chicken Phad Krapow over there and a vegan Pad Thai/vegan Green Curry keeping the righteous brothers at the end of our table happy. Jasmine rice all round, and too many bowls of chips: a fully-loaded table indeed. 

Of the starters, my coconut-creamy, lemongrass/lime leaf/basil-laden soup ticked all my Tom Kha boxes, while the Chicken Satay was as moist, smoky and nutty as one would hope for and the moreish, meaty Oyster Mushrooms brought a blast of ‘lesser spotted’ to the feast.

On the main course front, my Panang was a little bit too spicy for my tastes – very good (rich, creamy and fragrant) but slightly heavy-handed on the chilli front. But then again, what do I know? Maybe previous Panangs have got it wrong, and Thailand Wok are doing it right. The Chicken Prad Krapow, however, was a definite keeper: a complex, satisfying, deeply umami savoury/sweet combo that’s topping my ‘most wanted’ charts on my next visit. Elsewhere, both the vegan Pad Thai and vegan Green Curry got a big thumbs up, and the Priew Wan looked and smelt pretty darn good too; this is definitely a kitchen with character, confidence and conviction.

Overall, I really like Thailand Wok. I like its fresh, smiley countenance, its freshly-prepared, bring-a-smile-to-your-face food… and the chef who knows far more about Panang Curry than I do.

Published by Melissa

Hi there! I am a freelance journalist with 30+ years of published work on my portfolio... and a novel in the pipeline! I am regular contributor to several local and national publications, typically specialising in restaurant and theatre reviews, chef and theatre world interviews and food-related news.

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