Sarthi, Walcot Street, Bath

And so it came to pass that Sarthi recently magpied its way into the premises recently vacated by Pomegranate (née Aqua – keep up at the back!) on Walcot Street – and already, it’s a welcome addition to the Bath independent/plant-based restaurant scene.

At first glance, 88 Walcot Street looks like a rather formidable stone-fronted chapel nestled amongst the jumbly, tumbly surroundings of Bath’s ‘Artisan Quarter’. Venture within, however, and you’ll find it’s more of a mini-cathedral: cool, chic and infused with an understated sense of drama (if, that is, you consider the huge, attention-grabbing chandeliers to be ‘understated’) with tables/plush booths for all party sizes and occasions and a pretty little alfresco courtyard outback. 

So in many ways… yes, the restaurant is indeed a rather grand affair. But Sarthi has softened and suffused the imposing elegance of the surroundings by putting a genuinely warm and friendly ethos at the heart of the matter in line with a mission statement that puts heritage, tradition and life-affirming optimism at the epicentre of a magnanimous eat, drink and be happy vibe. 

From the glorious aromas that lure you through the door before you even set foot in the restaurant itself, there’s something in the Sarthi air that makes you feel you’re suddenly exactly where you should be, and all’s right with the world. And all is certainly very right when it comes to the food…

Sarthi specialises in well-priced, beautifully-presented vegetarian/vegan Indian sub-continent cuisine including a lively range of lesser-spotted dishes and specialities. It’s an interesting, extensive array that captivates the attention at every turn, with novel little flourishes such as Bang Bang Cauliflower, Garlic Mogo Chips and groovy Dosas happily sitting alongside traditional spice route raves (kormas; masalas; et al) along the way.

We started with Hara Bhara Kebab – minced spinach, peas, lentils, potatoes and a gentle hum of spice formed into four neat little patties, crunchy on the outside and moist within, served with their own little pot of rich, creamy sauce – and the fascinating crispy spinach/chutney/yoghurt/chaat masala combo that is the Palak Patta Chat, an Indian starter that I can’t get my hands on (or mouth around) often enough and exceeded my high expectations here, with extra bonus points added for super-pretty presentation.

And ooh, look what’s just landed on our table! Four Dahi Puri that fully live up to the menu’s “flavour bomb” description delivering texture, sweet/spice balance and all-round tastebud titillation in one bite. Oh go on – do it!

For mains, an earthy Saag Paneer laden with silky spinach and milky paneer, rich in earthy spices, thrumming with personality and perfectly complemented by our second sharing dish: a smooth, creamy, tomato/cashew-laden “Chicken” (or rather, a really, really good vegetarian ‘version’ of chicken) Butter Masala, fragrant and confidently complex. 

A slow-cooked, smoky/sweet Makhani Daal brought extra dimensions of luscious complexity to the party, Cashew Saffron Pilau Rice further upped the aromatic ante and a perfect peshwari naan sweetened up the whole affair. Talking of sweet… 

While you know – you just know – that a classic Gulab Jamun, a kulfi or a chocolate brownie won’t let you down here (this kitchen clearly knows all there is to know about Indian sub-continent classics), don’t overlook the Mango Delight with Coconut Crumble on the dessert menu. One part mango milk shake/lassi, one part almost-an-ice-cream-sundae and all parts grown-up kiddie treat, it’s the creamy, fruity, coconut-topped gift that keeps on giving.

And Sarthi is, overall, its own little glorious little gift that keeps on giving, to all of us.