Review: The Redan Inn, Chilcompton

The Redan Inn (Chilcompton, just 10 miles/16 km south of Bath) has sat on the Fry’s Well/Wells Road junction for… ooh, centuries. Like many of the hostelries around these yer parts, it was once a coaching inn. But in recent history, owners have moved on faster than the stagecoach that shunted mail twixt Bath and Wells. 

At last, however, The Redan can relax. Today, it’s thriving in the capable hands of the Somerset Pub Company, a lively, fairly new enterprise headed up by people with masses of impressive experience in running modern proper pubs on their CVs. 

As one would expect from such experience, the SPC’s Redan represents an outstanding example of the point where downhome tradition meets smart contemporary expectations: have a pint at the sparkly bar, lounge on a banque or cosy up at a table for two, on solid farmhouse furniture painted thoughtful shades of heritage hues and softened by plumped-up cushions. Roaring fires and cheerful vintage advertising paraphernalia add to the warm welcome, while fresh flowers here, a stag’s head on the wall over there and contented dogs lounging at the feet of their contented owners all combine to bolster the linger-long environment. And you could linger for much longer than it takes you to finish off that last orders pint, too; seven stylish rooms above the pub offer respite for travellers who want to explore Somerset in style. 

We weren’t staying over on the evening we visited The Redan Inn, but by the time it came to bid farewell we wished we were. 

The food menu here (currently in the process of being given a seasonal makeover, so keep up at the back via the pub’s website) includes time-honoured gastropub classics along the fish and chips/burger/perfect pie/pizza theme – exactly what you’d expect from a hostelry such as this; we couldn’t help ordering a Black Pudding Scotch Egg bar snack just because it was there (and I’m so glad it was, and we did). 

But the foodie flourish dishes set alongside the classic array are seriously, properly fascinating. Take, for example, a starter of barbecued tenderstem broccoli served with a silky satay sauce and a revitalising cucumber and sesame salad: beautifully constructed, perfectly balanced. Or what about gin cured smoked trout with lemon fennel, pickled cucumber and chive creme fraiche? Like the broccoli, it was the sort of intelligent, self-assured dish you’d expect to find on an upper-crust tasting menu but without the faff, over-formal ceremony or hefty price tag.

My main course waltzed to a similar beat: buttery pan roasted salmon, velvety creamed potatoes and an impressive Beurre Blanc sauce teased with capers to cut through any hint of over-richness; the Redan Inn kitchen has bought Classic French Cordon Bleu cookery to Chilcompton.

Meanwhile, his sturdy dish of the day – while equally as gracious in execution as my salmon – put a strapping smoked pork tomahawk (see pic) into the spotlight, served with the creamiest, nuttiest, neatest potato dauphinoise ever and a local cider sauce that I have it on very good authority was good enough to be “swigged from a tankard, with proper pork scratchings for dipping” (ask nicely, and The Redan would probably rustle that very combination up for you – it’s that kind of friendly place). 

We shared (or rather, politely fought over) a Triple Chocolate Brownie too – a treat so decadent, fudgy and chocolate-laden that it led me to demand head chef Rhys to sit down and share his brownie secrets with me which he very kindly did, alongside all-kinds-of-everything both ‘chef tip’ related and his general kitchen inspirations; trust me when I tell you that this is a young chef who’s going places and taking the The Redan with him – and, or course, vice-versa.

All this and more made me vow to become a Redan regular – after all, it’s less than half an hour’s drive from Bath (slightly longer by stagecoach). But what of the ‘more’ part of that promise? Well, there’s a gorgeous split-level terrace/garden to explore, all twinkly lights, lounge-around furnishings and manicured brambles, which whispers promises of sun-to-come. There’s a kitchen garden currently being thoroughly revitalised by a team of committed locals, and talk of film nights, festivals and barbecues when that sun finally comes out to play again.

And underpinning it all, there’s a genuine, welcoming conviviality at the heart of everything that The Redan Inn is doing that makes you want to be part of it too.